King Brothers Clothiers

More to Come...

Sat, 04 May 2013 17:02:10 -0400

The early part of this Spring has been a crazy one with the launch of our neckwear line, the ShelbyKnot Collection. www.shelbyknot.com.

We are, however, planning on entering the latter-part of Spring with many more blog posts. We have a big photo shoot lined up in a couple weeks, and will be vamping up our blogging immediately after.

We can’t wait. See you in a couple weeks!

The Art of the Bespoke Suit

Tue, 02 Apr 2013 21:53:52 -0400

Bespoke Suiting

We’re considered “young professionals.” Some young professionals wear suits, and some don’t. We’ve been noticing a trend, however, that we’ve mentioned before. Men in our generation are stepping up their game and dressing better just because they want to. Part of this process involves a suit and tie and whether you wear one everyday doesn’t matter. Every man should have at least one suit (and probably more) that he feels comfortable and powerful in.

When considering a suit purchase, very few of us think about getting a suit made for our body. People refer to this process as “Custom,” “Made-to-Measure,” or “Bespoke.” Some common characteristics of suits in this category are Functional buttonholes (surgeon cuffs), colorful suit linings, accent stitching (lapel and sleeves), ticket pocket (small pocket above main jacket pocket), etc. Not to mention the entire garment is made for you, not just tailored to you.

Before we go into any detail about “bespoke” suiting, we do need to define the three terms people use to talk about a suit that is made for you. Believe it or not, they aren’t interchangeable even though many people think they are.

What’s the difference between “custom”, “made-to-measure” and “bespoke”?

“Custom” can mean anything. Choosing something like a colored lining or different buttons gives a suit maker the right to call it “custom.” Bottom line, “custom” means you’ve had some say in the suit (even something as small as a lining or button color), but the suit it isn’t necessarily made for you.

“Made-to-Measure” means there are a limited number of symmetrical adjustments to an already pre-existing pattern. Because the adjustments are limited, and they’re working from a pre-existing pattern, “made-to-measure” shops/clothiers can’t do everything. They will typically not make any adjustment for your shoulder slope, posture, or any other differences between your body, and a mannequin.

“Bespoke” refers to the process of creating an original pattern specific to your body. It’s “bespoken” for you. It’s mathematical. Today, there are very few shops with one master tailor measuring, cutting and fitting the garment, however you can still find clothiers who are true “bespoke” clothiers. In the “bespoke” process, the client is king. He gets to choose everything- buttons, double-breasted?, accent stitching, lapel style/width, ticket pocket?, slanted pockets?, single or side vent?, lining color, etc.

From here on, we will be referring to this process as bespoke.

It’s our feeling that, when considering a custom clothing purchase, one might as well dish out a little more money and get a garment that is created uniquely for him. No one else will have it, and it will be the best fitting suit in the closet — not to mention the durability of a custom garment cannot be matched.

Here are some important things to remember before buying “bespoke”:

-Find the right Clothier.

Like we previously mentioned, certain clothiers don’t want you to know the difference between custom, made-to-measure, and bespoke because they want you to think you’re getting bespoke clothing when they’re cutting corners. Find one who not only knows the differences in these definitions but will also explain them to you. In your search, find a clothier that carries recent swatch books from established mills like Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, etc. These books are very expensive to produce and vendors carefully distribute them to the clothiers that do the most business and with whom they have good working relationships. In other words, if your clothier doesn’t have many (or recent) swatch books, you might want to look elsewhere.

A true bespoke clothier will take a number of different measurements. It’s not awesome if your clothier/tailor is done with your (initial) measuring in 2 minutes. That means they’re likely cutting corners in the process. If you’re getting suit #2, #3… the measuring process will likely not be as extensive (unless it’s a fabric that requires completely different measurements) as the initial fitting, especially if you haven’t lost or gained weight. If you’re getting fitted initially for a suit, plan on it taking about 60 measurements and 20-30 minutes. Make time for this, you won’t regret it.

-Be at a stable weight before going bespoke.

Certain people fluctuate weight often. If this is you, make sure you’re at a weight that you can and will maintain before committing to a bespoke suit. Five to ten pounds will be workable with your tailor (depending on what parts of your body you lose/gain weight), and the inlay of a true bespoke suit allows for some weight fluctuation…but don’t think that your new bespoke suit is magic. It’s not going to fit you the same way as it did pre-body transformation. Have your clothier measure you when you are at a maintainable body weight/shape.

-Listen to your clothier.

You’re not a clothier (probably) so listen to yours. They know how to make you look your best, and they know how to fit you for it (in pattern and measurement). There are different cuts, patterns, and fabrics that look good on different body types. Your clothier will know what is best for you, and a good clothier will also listen to what you like and help you create something that is representative of who you are, and looks fantastic. That’s why you want to be at a stable body weight before making this jump to bespoke.

-Focus on the Basics

Our clothier warned us before we got our first bespoke suit that we’d never be happy with ‘off-the-rack’ ever again. He was right. For this reason, it’s important that you start basic with your bespoke garments. In a way, you’re starting your wardrobe from scratch so buy what you wear and what can be versatile. A basic black, blue, and grey suit all in a medium shade is a good place to start because of the versatility of seasons and what you can wear them with. With this in mind, don’t be bullied into getting something you won’t/don’t wear. You’re the one spending more money than you’ve ever spent on a suit and you’re the one who has to wear it. If you wear black, start there. If you’re a blue pinstripes kind of guy, go for it. Just don’t start your bespoke wardrobe with a wild colored/patterned fabric unless you plan on buying other ‘basic’ pieces in the near future. Once you go bespoke, you’ll never go back to the rack.

-Don’t get caught up in fleeting fashion. Focus on timeless style.

We talked about this in the “fit” post we did, but it’s so important for “bespoke” suiting that we need to say it again. Does this mean you shouldn’t have a suit made to be slim fitting? No. It does mean, however, that you’ll want to get your suit made to fit your body (not your dream one—your actual body). A slim fitting suit tailored to your body will look different than a slim-fit suit on Joseph Gordon-Levitt. Today’s fashion—slim suits. Timeless style—a suit “bespoken” for you.

-Do your Homework

For your suit, and for your body. For example, if you have a muscular build, you naturally wear suits “harder” than a tall, skinny man. You naturally put more strain on certain parts of your suit. Get a more durable fabric. Do you have big, muscular shoulders? You probably need minimal-to-no shoulder pads and rope in your coat’s shoulders. You may also want to consider a lapel width that balances out your frame…Things like that. Your clothier can walk you through this process as well, but it helps to know a little bit about what you’re talking about.

Bespoke suits are an investment

So treat your them this way. Don’t skimp on little things when you’re purchasing your suits. Feel free to spend a little extra on details that make the suit your own (pockets, accent stitching, etc). After all, it’s the little details that will set your suit apart from others wearing the same fabric. If your suit doesn’t come with a large enough hanger to fit the shoulders of your suit properly, buy some that do. Take care of them in the way you wear, pack, and store them.

If you’re buying a bespoke suit, you clearly understand the importance of looking your best, and are willing to pay for it. As soon as you put your “bespoke” suit on, you will see and feel how your investment is starting to pay off.

Enjoy your bespoke suit, and the process that goes with it.

You know who you are, and the image you want to project. The process will allow for your bespoke wardrobe to literally fit you (and your image) perfectly.

Looking for a true bespoke clothier in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area?

Look no further than Kingford Bavender of Bavender Custom Clothiers. www.bavender.com

The Skinny on Neckwear

Sun, 17 Mar 2013 00:27:43 -0400

The Skinny on Neckwear:

Our most recent Haven Magazine column…

lordashbury: King Brothers Clothiers, New York.

Tue, 12 Mar 2013 16:29:43 -0400

lordashbury:

King Brothers Clothiers, New York.

lordashbury: King Brothers Clothiers, New York. A couple more...

Tue, 12 Mar 2013 16:29:33 -0400

lordashbury:

King Brothers Clothiers, New York.

A couple more from our Lord Ashbury shoot…

lordashbury: King Brothers Clothiers, New York. A cool pic...

Tue, 12 Mar 2013 13:58:03 -0400

lordashbury:

King Brothers Clothiers, New York.

A cool pic from our shoot with Lord Ashbury…

Your ties are only in stores around you right? I can't buy online?

Fri, 22 Feb 2013 14:43:40 -0500

They’re online as well!
www.bavender.com
We’ll be getting back to the blog soon…we’ve been a bit bombarded recently as you’ve probably noticed :)
Take care, man!

The best way to tie a tie: The Shelby Knot.

Wed, 06 Feb 2013 17:23:12 -0500

The best way to tie a tie: The Shelby Knot.

WE NEED HELP NAMING SOME TIES! Things are in full swing with our...

Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:44:00 -0500

WE NEED HELP NAMING SOME TIES!
Things are in full swing with our Spring neckwear collection. With that being said, we will be periodically adding pictures of designs from our collection that we want help naming! We want you, all of our “followers,” to be a part of this process with us. Let us know what you think we should name these! Ready, set, GO!

kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com

The Foundational Basics

Tue, 08 Jan 2013 20:25:33 -0500

The Foundational Basics:

Here’s a link to our most recent column for Haven Magazine.
Feel free to give us any feedback or ideas for future columns as well!
Enjoy!

Timeless Style, Fleeting Fashions: An Introduction

Mon, 07 Jan 2013 22:21:22 -0500

Timeless Style, Fleeting Fashions: An Introduction:

We’ve been writing as men’s style columnists for Haven Magazine for about a month now…Here’s our first post. We’ll post the second one in a day or so…Enjoy!

Let us know if there’s anything you’d like to see us write about for a future column! kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com

Finding Denim that Fits We wrote about fitted denim for our Gift...

Fri, 04 Jan 2013 09:12:19 -0500

Finding Denim that Fits

We wrote about fitted denim for our Gift Guide in December. In writing this, and in conversations we had with ‘gift guide’ readers, we decided to dedicate an entire post to buying jeans.

For some reason, buying denim is something with which many men have serious issues. They have a pair of jeans that feels comfortable, and they don’t want to branch out and try anything new. We’ve experienced this many times with guys. They’re wearing jeans that should be reserved for guys 20+ years their senior just because they’re comfortable to wear. Every guy needs to own a pair of fitted, dark denim and we want to help you in this process.

When talking about “fitted” denim, we’re not talking about “skinny jeans.” These two things are absolutely different in today’s age of style. A couple years ago, there wasn’t much of a separation. If jeans had any fit to them, they had a “skinny” label. And “skinny” jeans could only be squeezed into by extra slim guys who ride skateboards. This is not the case any more. Don’t be scared of a “slim fit” or “skinny” label. The ultimate goal is to get every guy into a pair of jeans that are fitted…if a “slim” or “skinny” label is going to help, let’s embrace it.

Every brand and style of denim fits almost everyone differently. We always suggest spending an extended amount of time in a store that sells a wide-variety of denim. If you’re a guy who doesn’t love shopping, this may seem like a bit of a chore, but it’ll be worth it to find denim you actually look good in…and can buy time after time. Try different brands/styles/sizes on, and bring someone with you who’ll give you honest feedback. This is important. Bring someone who you CAN’T boss around. They should also be stylish, too.

Listen to your stylish friend! That’s why you brought them along, after all. They’ll help you buy based on fit, not the numbers you’re used to seeing for the length and width.

Often times, guys get caught up in size numbers, and don’t venture outside what they’ve always worn. Find a pair of denim that has good fit to them, fits you well, looks great, and doesn’t have too much “wash” or “wear” on them. Also, try to stay away from any loud stitching or obnoxious pocketing.

Here’s the deal - jeans at the store will fit differently than jeans you’ve been wearing for years. That’s because A. they’re not as worn in, and B. jeans are made differently today than they were even 5 years ago. This is not a bad thing but it is a tough sell for many guys who like what they’ve always worn. Here’s what we suggest: When we’re helping a man buy new jeans, and one’s he might think feel “weird” or “different than his favorite pair,” we suggest having him put them on a “trial” period. Have him wear them for a couple weeks and if he still hates them, we can go back to the store and find something else.

Once you find a pair of jeans that you like, and that your stylish friend (or relative) thinks fit you well, you’re all set. Seriously. You can buy 5 of the same pair of jeans if you want. We often times suggest this, even. Both of us have a favorite jean, and we each own about 5 pairs. The great thing about denim brands is, many times, they have different “styles” to help you distinguish which ones fit you the best. Once you’ve distinguished “your” jean, you can buy it forever (unless the company stops making it, in which case it’s smart to have a ‘plan b’).

Jeans come in all shapes and sizes and people do too. If you or someone you know needs to go denim shopping, we hope this post helps you buy what fits, and buy what’s fitted.

As always, we’re available to answer any questions you have about stores, brands, styles, or just jeans in general. kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com.

4 dapper guys in one room…finalizing details for our...

Fri, 28 Dec 2012 18:48:10 -0500

4 dapper guys in one room…finalizing details for our neckwear collection coming this Spring. Stay tuned for more information!

Did you get anything from the King Bros. Gift Guide this year? We’d love to see it…Send...

Tue, 25 Dec 2012 17:14:14 -0500

Did you get anything from the King Bros. Gift Guide this year? We’d love to see it…Send us pictures!

Men of the Cloth

Wed, 19 Dec 2012 13:33:00 -0500

We’re not in any way involved with this film, other than really wanting to see it get made!

Please take some time to check out the ‘Men of the Cloth’ Kickstarter campaign…we really want to see them reach their goal!

As Christmas is the time of gift giving, it would be very cool to see Men of the Cloth receive the funding it needs through ‘gifting.’ This film seems like a very insightful look into the great masters of bespoke tailoring as well as where this craft can go from here. Check out the link below, and pledge!

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1508357355/men-of-the-cloth-humble-men-who-make-exalted-cloth

King Bros. Gift Guide: Carte Poche It’s a pocket...

Tue, 18 Dec 2012 10:56:39 -0500

King Bros. Gift Guide: Carte Poche

It’s a pocket square…it’s a wallet…it’s a Carte Poche; and it’s a perfect item for the King Bros. Gift Guide!

Does it get any better than this? We don’t think so! You’ve heard us preach about the beauty (and the fairly recent rise) of the pocket square, so why not turn it into something with a dual purpose? A stylish pocket square, and a practical place to hold your cards.

The Carte Poche is brought to you by our friend, Edward Armah – the same guy behind the pocket circle. Check out all his stuff on his website, butterflybowties.com. Edward is an inspirational self-made entrepreneur, not to mention a really nice guy.

Edward Armah is dubbed “The Bowtie King” in the style world, but can just as well be known for being the ‘king’ of mixing style and innovation with his products.

The Carte Poche designs are sharp, colorful and are perfect for adding personality to any combination (not to mention, you’ll lose the pocket ‘bulk’ from your wallet). It’s always a rarity when function doesn’t cost the compromise of style.

The Carte Poche is a perfect accessory that won’t make men choose one or the other.

As always, let us know if you want or need help in purchasing the right Carte Poche for your man! kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com

King Bros. Gift Guide: Classic Watch Certain men don’t...

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 10:52:24 -0500

King Bros. Gift Guide: Classic Watch

Certain men don’t wear watches. That’s fine and they’ve usually got legitimate reasons for it. Those men who do wear watches, or who are open to it, need a classic-looking watch to add to their day-to-day wardrobe. Sure, unique pieces are great, but a “classic” watch is versatile and can be dressed ‘up’ or ‘down.’ That’s why we’ve added it to the King Bros. Gift Guide.

When we say “classic,” there are a few things we’re talking about:

1. The Face. This should be simple. Few (if any) additional dials or numbers (aside from a chronometer) and a neutral color inside (white(ish), black, light grey, etc.). Just a warning, Roman Numerals are seen as “dressier” in the watch world, so keep that in mind when shopping.

2. The Band. Assuming the band of the watch is leather, go with a simple brown or black. There can be some detailing in the band, but it is good to stay simple for the “classic” watch. If the watch band is metal-with-clasp, you don’t have to worry about the band…as long as the face follows the above guidelines, you’ll be set.

3. The Color (Metal). Go with either a gold or silver finish. Again, we’re talking about the color, not the metal. There are a number of materials a watch can be made of to get the classic ‘gold’ or ‘silver’ look.

4. The Size. There’s some personal preference involved here as certain men prefer different watch sizes and certain wrists can handle different dimensions. However, when choosing a watch for your man, you’ll be safe choosing a face of 1”-1.75” in diameter, and about .25” in thickness, as these dimensions are pretty standard for men and will fit nicely into the “classic” watch category.

Watches are one of the few items in a wardrobe that are passed down to other generations. The “classic” watch will be a gift that can be enjoyed by your man and generations to come. No pressure, though. Watch shopping is fun, so enjoy the process!

We LOVE watches, and would love to help you find the perfect one for your man. Let us know if we can help in any way! kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com

King Bros. Gift Guide: The Overcoat The definition of an...

Thu, 13 Dec 2012 10:56:37 -0500

King Bros. Gift Guide: The Overcoat

The definition of an overcoat is, “a heavy coat worn over ordinary clothing in cold weather.” If you live in a state where winter is actually winter, you probably know how necessary it is to have one of these. With this being said, the coat is where many men go “wrong” with their wardrobe. They put together a great combination, but throw on some ratty-looking, baggy pea coat they got on clearance at Old Navy when they were in college (we have nothing against Old Navy by the way). The unfortunate truth is, many men don’t know how to dress for the really cold weather. It seems the common idea is “functionality is king.” Function can still be number one without compromising style. If your man had a nice overcoat, it’d be a lot easier.

The necessity of this item, and the numerous ways in which “coat etiquette” is overlooked, makes this perfect for the King Bros. Gift Guide.

Let us start by defining two types of coats before we go into the details of what to buy.

Like we mentioned earlier, an overcoat is, “a heavy coat worn over ordinary clothing in cold weather.” A topcoat is “an outdoor coat worn over a suit, etc.” Many times these two things are mistaken for being the same when they, in fact, are not. As you can tell by the definitions, a topcoat is almost strictly reserved for wearing over a suit, or other formal attire and should hit right above or right below the knee. An overcoat is a lot more versatile. As the definition states, the overcoat is for “ordinary clothing” so it can be worn with pretty much anything. If the overcoat is dressier, it can be worn over formal attire as well. Just make sure it’s longer than the suit coat is.

When purchasing an overcoat, be looking for a few things. First, make sure it’s a neutral color: grey, navy, black, brown, etc. Second, make sure it’s got nice fit to it. It shouldn’t be too tight, but it shouldn’t look like a tent either. You’ll be able to tell how the coat will fit by buttoning it up, even on the hanger. If it looks pretty fitted, it probably is. If it looks like a box, it will probably be boxy when worn. Third, make sure it’s stylish. This seems simple, but you’d be surprised at how many out-of-style coats are sold everyday. Remember, when talking about “style,” we’re not talking about the latest “fashion,” we’re talking about something that one will be able to wear when fashions and trends change. A stylish overcoat should not have too many pockets, should hit about mid-thigh, should have no excess zippers, and should, of course, follow the above guidelines of fit and color.

As the snow falls, and as the wind-chill is consistently below zero, make sure your man looks as good on the street as he does in the office; it’s amazing how a great overcoat can actually add to an ensemble. As always, feel free to ask us any questions you may have about purchasing an overcoat for your man. kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com

Well done on the gift guide guys! love seeing it pop up on my facebook timeline. loving all the ideas!

Tue, 11 Dec 2012 14:25:49 -0500

Thanks, Omar! Glad to know it’s being read and appreciated by guys who love style! Keep up the great work on your blog as well…We read your writing for MMD. Great stuff, and smart writing.

King Bros. Gift Guide: Fitted Denim We’ve written posts on...

Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:24:44 -0500

King Bros. Gift Guide: Fitted Denim

We’ve written posts on “fit” before. We’ve stressed it’s importance. We’ve explained why it’s critical for clothing to fit well and we’ve broken down the difference between “fitted” and “tight.” We have also confessed our love for colored denim. It can add to many combinations, yet maintain a sense of freedom and fun.

We haven’t really addressed fitted denim yet, even though it’s an absolute ‘must have’ in every man’s wardrobe. The King Bros. Gift Guide seems like a great way to introduce this essential item.

In a way, colored denim fits into this category. However, colored denim is a pretty distinct item of clothing, and even though we love to wear it (and can pair it with many different pieces), it’s not as versatile as a pair of well-fitted, dark-denim jeans.

In today’s day and age, denim is starting to be seen as a more acceptable item of clothing, as a “casual” atmosphere is becoming more of the norm. We’re not particularly fond of this, but whether we like it or not, it has been happening for a while. Because of this, many men can get away with wearing jeans 7 days a week if they’d like. This makes denim one of the most-worn items of clothing in many men’s wardrobes. This also makes fitted denim a must have. Just because jeans are acceptable in many work and social situations, doesn’t mean one should try to get away with wearing ratty, faded blue jeans.

When talking about “fitted” denim, we’re not talking about “skinny jeans.” These two things are absolutely different in today’s age of style. A couple years ago, however, there wasn’t much of a separation. If jeans had any fit to them, there was a “skinny” label attached. Today, purchasing a “relaxed” or “straight” fit (depending on the brand) can often look great, and have a great fit to it.

You know if you or your man doesn’t own a pair of nice, fitted dark-denim. If this is the case, put it on your list, or go out and get a pair for the man in your life.

We will be posting a guide for jeans shopping after the Holidays as this is something that is often intimidating, and feared by men. Until then, if you still have questions about purchasing fitted denim for your man, don’t hesitate to ask! kingbros@kingbrosclothiers.com